This Iowa Literary Road Trip Leads to 7 Incredible Bookstores and Sites
One of my favorite things about growing up in the Hawkeye State was its legendary literary legacy. I spent much of my youth in Iowa City with Iowa Writer’s Workshop-adjacent parents, and I still feel a keen attachment to my home state’s deep well of talent, whether homegrown or just passing through. Few places have had as many literary giants touch their soil as Iowa has. When I was trying to think of a way to pay homage to this tradition, I decided the best way was to combine it with another of my favorite pastimes – roadtripping. So, grab a notebook and your reading glasses, and let’s hit the byways for a literary road trip through Iowa (at least the eastern half).
The whole trip covers just over 400 miles in just under seven hours of driving. You’ll definitely want to consider doing it over a couple of days so you can get the most out of each stop. I put together a Google Maps itinerary so you can track along on your smartphone or customize the trip however you like – just tap or click on the link. But for purposes of this article, we’re going to start in the far northeastern corner of Iowa then work our way south. You may, of course, do it in any order you choose.
1. Laura Ingalls Park and Museum – Burr Oak
Located just a few minutes south of the Minnesota border, Burr Oak is an unincorporated village that was once home to Laura Ingalls and her family. The family lived and worked at the Masters Hotel in 1876 before returning to Walnut Grove, Minnesota, the following year. A small museum dedicated to the beloved writer is located on the original site. It’s the community’s best-known attraction, and it draws Ingalls Wilder pilgrims from all over the country and the world. In late June, the museum hosts its annual Laura Ingalls Wilder Days celebration.
2. Dragonfly Books – Decorah
The charming town of Decorah is located just 15 minutes south of Burr Oak, and it’s a great place to explore once you’ve satisfied your Laura Ingalls curiosity. In addition to being the place where I went to high school, Decorah has also been home to authors like Brenda K. Massman, Brad Steiger, and others. Stop in at the public library – parts of its old Carnegie Library façade are still standing! – where I spent many hours and days. Then make your way downtown to Dragonfly Books and browse the selection. If you have time, grab a beer at the Toppling Goliath taproom – it’s just east of town.
3. Spillville
Another 15 minutes south of Decorah, you’ll find the tiny, historic town of Spillville, which has deep Czech roots. In fact, Czech composer Antonín Dvořák famously spent the summer of 1893 here and wrote his twelfth String Quartet in F major, the American. Writer Patricia Hampl and artist Steven Sorman explored Dvořák’s summer in the community in their collaborative book, Spillville. While you’re here, stroll up to Saint Wenceslaus Catholic Church – the oldest Czech Catholic church in the U.S. – and be sure to stop into the fascinating Bily Clocks Museum and Antonín Dvořák Exhibit to learn even more about this charming town’s history and its relationship to the Old World.
4. Reading in Public Bookstore – Des Moines
The longest drive of this road trip is the stretch between Spillville and Des Moines, the city where acclaimed writer Bill Bryson grew up. You can read Bryson’s account of his childhood adventures in the city’s Greenwood neighborhood in his memoir, The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid. Or check out his love letter to small towns in the U.S., including the Hawkeye State, The Lost Continent: Travels in Small-Town America. While you’re in the neighborhood, mosey over to Reading in Public Bookstore + Cafe to grab some coffee and peruse the offerings. It’s just a few minutes west of Bryson’s boyhood home on Elmwood Drive.
5. Brick Road Books – Winterset
When you’re ready to hit the road again, head south about 40 minutes to the lovely town of Winterset, the birthplace of John Wayne but even more famously, the jumping off point for touring the renowned covered bridges of Madison County. The area’s renown grew exponentially after the novella The Bridges of Madison County, by Iowa native Robert James Waller, became a best-seller; and even more so when the book was made into a movie directed by Clint Eastwood, who also starred in the film alongside Meryl Streep. Be sure to stop by Brick Road Books in Winterset to see what’s in stock and to learn more about the area.
6. Dey House – Iowa City
The University of Iowa campus in Iowa City is the next stop. Iowa City was among the first three designated UNESCO Cities of Literature, and for good reason. From Flannery O’Connor, Kurt Vonnegut, and Sandra Cisneros to John Irving, Philip Roth, and Melissa Febos, the number of renowned writers who’ve set foot in the Iowa Writer’s Workshop – whether as students, or teachers, or both – is incredible. And ground zero for this crucible of talent is Dey House, a former private home on a bluff above the Iowa River between Currier Hall and the University president’s residence. Any lover of literature in the Hawkeye State ought to at least pass by and ponder who else has trod the sidewalk beside the Dey House.
7. Prairie Lights Books – Iowa City
After a contemplative moment at Dey House, head immediately over to Dubuque Street in downtown Iowa City, and stroll into Prairie Lights Books and Cafe – the walk there from Dey House takes about 10 minutes. This is my favorite bookstore in all of Iowa, and I think you’ll love it, too. Order some coffee and browse the selection, which goes deep on local and regional authors, as well as Workshop writers. It’s a fitting way to wrap up this literary road trip through Iowa.
You can also find plenty of books by Iowa authors or set in Iowa at Bookshop.org, which is my favorite online source for books. How many places on this road trip have you visited? What other spots should be included? Let us know in the comments!
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